Nikko, neutered male Pitbull Terrier ~ Ch Spitfire's Xtreme Xerxes, intact male Belgian Sheepdog

PREVENTING AGGRESSION

Let's put aggression in perspective. It is normal canine behavior. It is one of many social behaviors dogs use to communicate information to other dogs, humans, and any other species with which they come into contact. We often misunderstand dog aggression because we fail to realize that dogs relate to humans and other species just as they would another dog unless we teach them differently. A dog is genetically prepared to behave only as a dog. It is up to us to give them the tools they need to live successfully among us…among a foreign species!

Behavior in adult dogs is a combination of nature and nurture. Genetics, general temperament, breed tendencies, early socialization, ongoing socialization all affect behavior. How we live with our dogs and whether or not we provide structure and boundaries for our dogs also affects behavior.

I . SOCIALIZE YOUR DOG

Proper socialization of a puppy during the first 12 weeks of his life is the single most important thing we can do to prevent the development of aggressive behavior in our dogs.

As puppies grow they go through developmental periods that correspond with physical and neurological growth cycles. The critical period for socialization is from 3 weeks through 16 weeks of age. It is the most important time relative to social interactions. In fact, it is the only time and if you've missed it there will be no opportunity to make it up.

Whatever the puppy is not exposed to during this time period will become an "issue" for the dog as it matures. If, for example, a dog does not have positive interactions with children he will not ever be completely comfortable with them as an adult. He may learn to tolerate them and he may learn to like certain children in certain settings, but he will not have a general favorable response to all children.

Equally important as the exposure itself is the quality of the exposure. If a puppy has a scary experience with a child, another dog, etc. he will learn to have a negative response to these things that scared him.

II. SUPERVISE CHILDREN AND DOGS

Think of a dog as a pair of pointy scissors. If you leave the room, take the kid or the dog with you or put it in its crate, exercise pen, kitchen behind a baby gate or some other place where he can't leave and the kids can't go. 77% of all bites to children are to the face - probably because that's the part of the body that is invading and hugging and kissing and because a muzzle pin (open mouth across the offending pup's face) is how adult dogs correct invasive puppies. Your dog views small kids as pesky puppies. Turn your back for even a moment, and your child will be a child -- and your dog will be a dog!

III. TEACH YOUR DOG MANNERS

Expect your dog to be polite, set some boundaries and be consistent. Teach him self-control. For example, have your dog remain in a down-stay while you prepare his meal. Have him sit patiently while people walk through the front door. Don't allow him to yell obscenities at the mailman (he is actually practicing aggressive behavior). Require him to sit for everything he wants in life - the privilege of jumping on your bed, going for a walk, etc.

Use positive reward-based training

 
Using forceful training methods, such as "alpha rolling" "pinning" and physical punishment increases the incidence of aggression. Dogs often adopt aggressive strategies over time to cope with punishment. If you think you must physically dominate your dog to prove you are the alpha/top dog, consider this: current and more in-depth behavior studies have shown that in wild and domesticated dogs, it's not true that the pack leader routinely rolls other pack members onto their backs or uses other physical force to keep them in line.

bruce andre photography

IV. PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOUR DOG IS LEARNING ON A DAILY BASIS

Don't let him yell (bark) at the neighborhood children who ride by on their bikes. His barking may begin as frustration - "I wanna play too!" But, it can develop into aggression. Dog often practice aggression from behind a fence.

Don't leave your dog tied up outside unattended.
Dogs who are tied up are vulnerable to the outside world, because they cannot flee. So, they may become aggressive to ward off any potential problems…in the animal kingdom the best defense is a good offense. Dogs who are tied up are also a danger to unsuspecting children/adults who may wander inside the dog's "territory."

Bring your dog inside the house.
Dogs who sleep in the house with their people are less likely to get in to trouble. As you teach them to have good house manners, they will learn to respect you as the pack leader. Dogs who live outside tend to make up their own rules and become possessive of their territory, which leads to territorial aggression.

V. PAY ATTENTION TO GENETICS

Aggression often has a genetic component. When a breed description includes "reserved with strangers" it means "doesn't like people too much." Dogs that fall into this category need above average socialization and training. Poor breeding can also result in aggressive tendencies in dogs who "should" be comfortable in social situations.

Support ethical breeders
Good breeders are rare. Ethical breeders work hard to eliminate genetic weaknesses from the gene pool. They also begin socializing their puppies at 3 weeks of age and whelp their puppies in the house where they can begin imprinting on the sites and sounds of normal family life…this eliminates puppies that were whelped and raised in a barn or kennel, doesn't it?

Good breeders invite you to meet the puppy's mother (and father if he is on-site). They will ask you a lot of questions and talk to you about spaying and neutering. Good breeders never let their puppies go before 7weeks of age. Good breeders NEVER sell their puppies through pet stores. Ever.

Put pet stores, puppy mills and back yard breeders out of business
They typically produce unsound and unsocialized dogs.

VI. RETHINK THE UNDERGROUND ELECTRONIC FENCE

A solid fence is always preferable. Underground radio signal fences that administer shock or citronella or sound do not prevent dog bites as well as solid fences for a variety of reasons. First is the fact that dogs get excited and run thru them - not all dogs and not all of the time, but it happens. Second, other dogs and people don't know the invisible barrier is there and they walk onto the dog's territory. This is particularly dangerous if the dog spends time inside the "fence" yelling at people and other dogs as they go by. Dogs who do so, are actually practicing aggression. Third, the dog may pair the discomfort of the shock with the appearance of another dog or human, increasing the resentment/agitation in a frustrated dog behind such a fence. Fourth, dogs who are fearful are particularly prone to aggression at the invisible fence line. Timid dogs need to feel safe. They are not safe behind an underground radio fence, because other dogs and people can enter. Fearful dogs often go into "offense" when pushed into a state of panic.

VII. SPAY AND NEUTER

Hormones play a significant role in aggression. A majority of serious dog bites are done by the intact male dog over two-years of age.

Back to Northern Tails Dog Training

© 2004, Carol A. Byrnes    
DIAMONDS in the RUFF
This site was designed by Carol Byrnes, whose talent as an artist is matched only by her talent as a dog trainer

Photos courtesy of Cathy Fox, photographer extraordinaire!
And Bruce Andre - a true artist with a camera!
© 2007, Lisa Lucas